Woo Jong-il can see North Korea from his front yard. He still remembers the moments when stray bullets would fly through the air, terrifying the hundreds of families scattered along the border. These days the retired dairy farmer is prepared: he has two concrete bunkers in case of an attack. In just a few short steps, the 72-year-old can run out of his living room and down a short flight of narrow concrete stairs into a cold and damp box in the ground below his house, with only a single bare lightbulb. A larger bunker built into a hill is a five-minute walk through rice paddies.