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Over the years, I have visited Angkor so many times that I have lost count. The city was the capital of the Khmer Empire, a realm that lasted for more than 600 years—from 802 to 1431. The sight of the great stone temples, such as Angkor Wat and Bayon, leaves an indelible impression on every visitor.
Here you see an AI-generated image of Bayon, the state temple at the heart of the city. From here, more than two hundred stone faces once gazed in all directions—and they still do. At its height, the empire encompassed not only Cambodia but most of Thailand and parts of Laos, Burma, and Vietnam. But was Bayon gilded?
When the Chinese envoy Zhou Daguan arrived in Angkor in 1296, the city and the empire had already passed their zenith. Yet what he saw was more than enough to overwhelm him. In the book he later wrote, he describes temples, rituals, and everyday life—and a “golden tower” that shone in every direction. Scholars believe this tower must have been Bayon. Today it no longer gleams, yet it still inspires both wonder and admiration.

