At a time when so much seems to be going wrong, it is reassuring to feel the arrival of spring. Not least in Japan, where the cherry blossoms are now in full bloom. Millions of Japanese have already taken part in the celebrations, and many more look forward to experiencing the annual enchantment known as hanami – “flower viewing.”
“The event is not merely a natural experience, but a way of contemplating existence,” says the cultural historian Haruo Shirane. “It reflects who we Japanese are – spontaneous, playful, and philosophical.”
The celebration begins, naturally, in the far south, where spring arrives first. On the islands of Okinawa, the cherry trees may bloom as early as January. The climate there is subtropical and mild, and the blossoms are often a deeper shade of pink than on the mainland. From Okinawa, the bloom spreads northward, and by late March it reaches cities such as Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo. The most famous place in Tokyo for cherry blossom viewing is undoubtedly Ueno Park, where thousands of trees form a pale pink canopy over the paths.
As the colorful climax approaches, competition for picnic spots becomes fierce. Many companies send employees out early in the morning to check the trees, the sun, and the shade. The best spots are quickly claimed with large blue tarps marked with messages: “Mitsubishi 6 p.m.,” “Nikon Sales Department 7 p.m.,” or “Subaru 6–10 p.m., please do not remove this sign!”
But the festivities do not end there. After Tokyo, the blossoms continue their journey northward, all the way to the island of Hokkaido. In the winter sports city of Sapporo, the celebration does not begin until late April or early May. The Japanese follow the weather forecasts closely, and for the most devoted, the weather becomes an obsession.
A hanami is, above all, a social gathering filled with smiles and laughter, and the food is almost as important as the blossoms themselves. It is not a single dish, but a universe of small delicacies carefully arranged in square boxes – grilled fish or chicken, eggs, boiled, fried, and pickled vegetables, and, of course, rice. Colorful rice dumplings on skewers are also part of the feast, as is pink rice cake filled with bean paste, wrapped in a salted cherry leaf. Everything is washed down with beer – or sake, though usually in more moderate quantities.
